An Ode to Our First Family Home
We are leaving France. And soon. As in we are leaving TOMORROW. We are leaving the home where we became a family, where we finally entered parenthood (and adulthood). We have no more internet service chez nous so I’m forced to sit in McDo and try to breathe through all the distracting smells, munch on McMacarons and record my jumbled and confused thoughts these final hours abroad.
I’m sad to leave France, it’s true. But I’m excited to return home – interested to see if US culture will seem foreign at all and what I will miss from France. Most people I talk to back in the US see how exciting and adventuresome the last 3.5 years have been – but it’s also been really challenging. Being an expat – and arriving with almost zero French to boot – is not always easy. Add career ambitions, pregnancy, and motherhood into the mix and you have the makings of a frustrating and often disheartening (though simultaneously delightful) cocktail.
Paris is incredible. The sheer amount of art you can take in on any given day is overwhelming and for someone like me is a dream come true. I’ve learned more about art and its history by roaming the galleries and museums of this city than I did during all my years of undergraduate and graduate training combined. Researching, writing, teaching (by way touring) I’ve gotten comfortable in this place and in the sense of possibility that accompanies it. I love living in that possibility, it’s become my comfortable home. Even if i don’t always exploit all the resources available to me, knowing they’re there is enough to make me happy.
But above all, it’s our little apartment in Versailles that I’ll miss the most. We’ve never been so attached to a place and I suppose it’s in part because it’s a such a good find for the size, the location, and the price – but also because Little Mister had all his firsts here. And he loves it soooo much. He loves looking out the windows while he eats, he loves reading books in our reading corner, he loves walking the funky loop that connects, bedroom, bedroom, bathroom and halls. And we love that the walls are concrete, so no sound gets to Little Mister when we have company and he’s snoozing soundly in his little bed. Here are some of our favorite places, now all packed up, disassembled and on their way to California:
Our beloved reading nook, complete with the first rocking chair ever to rock Little Mister.
Here we are, making good use of that chair. Many, many a book has been read in that chair.
And here Papa Ted enjoys the famed reading chair.
This reclaimed wood mantle is one of my favorite features of the apartment. Granted, there’s a massive gap between it and the wall, filled in with packing tape and newspaper, and behind the mantle/fireplace contraption is a giant, gaping hole in the wall that mice used to sneak through. But it’s pretty and even the janky quirks of this place we’ve grown to love. It suits (suited?) us.
Wall facing Rue Marechal Foch, featuring my favorite poster that I bought in a tiny gallery in Krakow on our first trip through Europe my first year here. Picture this: My dad, my sister, my husband and myself all driving from Paris to Krakow and back again. My sister and I were in the back seat. We drank beer (cuz you can do that in Europe) and had giggle fits like little kids. Also, we put so much work into those damn livingroom walls, painting and repairing when we first moved in. I’ll always remember me up on the ladder with my massive, pregnant belly silhouetted in the window. I can only imagine what that hanging belly looked like from street level.
The view from our dining table on a mellow day. Three times a week there’s a beautiful and bustling farmer’s market. The other days there’s a sort of random bazaar selling clothes and kitchen wares that have to have fallen off a truck somewhere. Little Mister loves to watch the action while he eats. I think he’ll miss that most.
Little Mister’s bedroom as viewed from the linen closet hallway – or “Alice in Wonderland Room” as I like to call it. The hallway is the only wallpapered room in the house and has sort of a random, magical feel because of that.
And a view above Little Mister’s bed. He loves to touch the birds when he wakes up. We’re taking them with us, so hopefully that’ll help him feel at home in his new SoCal bedroom, wherever it is. I love the built-in bookshelf. And, a rarity in French apartments, the room had three – THREE – closets.
Not to mention the amazing bakery directly downstairs
The scent of bread was sometimes so thick in the morning I’d wake up famished at 4am.
And of course, down the street were the amazing and vast gardens at the chateau de versailles.
Finally, Little Mister – lovin’ his lion, lovin’ life, lovin’ our little home.
Home, you’ve been good to us and we’ve loved you. We hope you’ll take good care of the next little family to live in you. And hopefully, we’ll find an equally homey home on the next leg of our adventure. I’m exhausted and it’s late here at McDo, so bye for now and we’ll see you on the other side of the world.
On the Other Side of the Holiday
Since my last post was so depressing I thought I’d return to the good things in life and catch you all up on our holiday this year/Little Misters’ FIRST birthday. We went home to California for our first Christmas as a little family and, hectic though it was, we were all really grateful to be around our army of Californian loved ones.
Before we left, however, we had a few final French holiday adventures of our own:
We had our own early Christmas celebration just a few days after Little Mister surprised us by taking his first steps.
The gift he’s unwrapping was a ball-popping elephant that actually scared the bejeezus out of him. Toy fail.
Our version of visiting Santa this year was a trip to Printemps in Paris. Yes, those are mini Karl Lagerfelds.
Little Mister was less than impressed.
Then it was up to the top of Printemps to take in the view.
That big building looming above the rest is the Opéra Garnier.
And there’s Sacre Coeur on Montmartre.
And here we have this year’s bûche de noël
It was promptly devoured.
In California Little Mister met his cousin Mdawg for the first time:
And had a generally good time unwrapping presents and visiting with all his relatives.
The sun was shining the whole time, so little mister had plenty of opportunity to explore outside
Here we are walking down Main Street Placerville.
And finally, so that this post doesn’t drag on forever, here’s Little Mister at his (early) 1st birthday party:
Our holiday stay in California was really lovely this year and writing this post I’m reminded of some of the reasons we decided to take the job in California. But it will be hard to say goodbye to France. Life is beautiful here and I’ve loved it, while admittedly at times hating it, and often in equal parts. Beautiful though it is, it hasn’t been easy, especially once you throw childbirth and motherhood into the mix (thankfully I had an amazing group of expat mothers to ease me into things – you know who you are). But life here has been incredible, transformational, inspiring, revealing, educational and simply fun. California, can you be all those things for us, too? And maybe even add a little calming and peaceful and restful into the mix? Thanks.
Here We Come on a Snowy Morning
Snow is falling outside our lovely apartment. My baby is still sleeping. My husband is still sleeping. I’m watching snowflakes fall in the synthetic glow of early morning streetlamps. The marketplace downstairs is buzzing with activity – bad weather doesn’t stop the French from getting their weekly supply of fresh veggies and stinky cheese, you know. This town is beautiful. And I’m grieving its loss when we move.
This last week we’ve made official arrangements, gotten an estimate from the moving company and have set a mid-March departure date. So, it’s real now. And reality stings. I’m really apprehensive and unsure we’ve made the right decision. The decision was made for truly practical reasons and my soul/spirit/whatever is not really cooperating with the brain these days. I’m plagued constantly with “What were we thinking?!?!?!?” moments and have chosen this moment to read a gorgeous history of Paris that only serves to amplify the volume of these thoughts. This apartment is our home, this is Jonas’ first home, where he took his first steps, had his first bath, said his first word. Where we became a family. Where I became a mother. Jonas likes it here. I like it here. Dustin likes it here. What were we thinking?!?!?!?
On Second Thought . . .
Two months later . . . and it’s true – we’re moving. To Orange County. That’s south of LA, for those unfamiliar with California’s ragged geography. It’s not a pretty place. As I mentioned in my previous post, aside from long stretches of dude-laden beaches, Orange County is home to myriad strip malls, shopping centers, chain restaurants, gas-guzzling SUVs, fake boobs, fake blonds, not to mention massive, character-less apartment complexes (in which we are destined to live).
So, as you can imagine, the decision was not an easy one, and is not without mixed feelings. I’m sad and scared about some things (lifestyle changes and ugly strip malls, namely), excited about others (responsive landlords, convenience, no language barrier, closer to family, more things to do with kids, etc). It feels really strange to be leaving our home of 3+ years, where I walk out the door and feel connected to history and beauty, and am charmed every day by what I see even just looking out my window. I find that I’m grieving for this life already. I know that I won’t feel as much a sense of connection in Orange County as I do here – how can one be as connected to a sense of community and place when everyone is isolated in cars, rather than walking around, passing neighbors and businesses owners on the street every day?
But, what I didn’t anticipate in having a kid overseas is how much more I need my “tribe,” as it were. I mean, my dad did it in the US with all his family over in Poland so I figured I could, too. When things are smooth sailing it’s no problem, but if my little mister has the slightest problem or setback, I find I need someone to run to for advice and reassurance. It will be great even to just be in the same time zone for a phone call to my sister or mother-in-law.
Of course, the biggest deciding factor in all this is a huge work opportunity for my mister cooper, which he is super excited about and already engaged by. I’m really happy that he’s feeling motivated again and reinvigorated.
And though I don’t relish the idea of becoming acclimated to (cough, snort) Orange County, of all places, let alone having to re-build community and job contacts – I am excited that Jonas will be able to have a closer connection to his family and to his huge menagerie of cousins in Northern California. I myself grew up with a massive and close-knit family in Poland that I didn’t know until I was fully grown and have always felt that I really missed out. I know mister cooper’s aunts and uncles have been a wonderful presence in his life, and I think providing little mister with the opportunity to develop those same relationships is of the utmost importance.
So, off we go this March (maybe sooner), to re-establish ourselves in the land of ticky tacky boxes and all-you-can-eat buffets. And sadly, I fear, I will no longer love where I live.
Loving Where you Live
Since returning from our trip to California, my husband and I have been seriously discussing a relocation. During our visit, it felt incredible to be surrounded by so many friends and our loving, huge family when ordinarily we are aliens exploring what is still a somewhat unfamiliar territory. We have dear friends here, to be sure, and find the Versaillais to be a generally friendly, child-loving bunch, but nothing beats time spent with the people who’ve known you and loved you since you were just a crunchy, dread-locked, freewheelin’, backless shirt wearin’, wanna-be hippie making trouble in the ‘ville. It’s just, well, it’s home. And it’s right.
The thing is, if we moved back stateside it would most likely be to what us Northern Californians consider to be a generally unappealing region: Orange County, CA. Beautiful beaches abound, but it is also the land of strip malls, freeways, massive apartment complexes, rampant materialism, Republican money and fake boobs. Pretty much the inverse of our current lifestyle. We’ve been thinking long and hard and deep and have been so so conflicted. Today, I decided to take a walk with Little Mister to clear my head, and along the way I found renewed commitment to our beautiful life here, even with all its challenges.
How could you not love living in a place where this is what greets you on an afternoon stroll:
Treats displayed in the window of a nearby chocolaterie
Cathedral around the corner from our flat (Notre Dame de Versailles). Note Little Mister peeking out in the corner.
Beautiful cakes on display at a lovely patisserie/salon de thé. Little Mister is none too thrilled at having stopped, yet again, for a photo.
Antique book seller
Works by this incredible local street artist – he uses tar to haphazardly create poetic forms on cross walks, sidewalks, and curbs. It’s like a little shot of the essentially human in the midst of your daily hustle and bustle. I love them.
Gate to the chateau gardens, at the end of Rue de la Paroisse.
We live just a short walk to the famed chateau and on a sunny day like today, I love a walk in its gardens.
I can’t say I’m not somewhat baffled by the French-style garden (I imagine an army of geometrically-obsessed gnomes carefully tending to their tiny, unnaturally conical trees).
A series of Bernar Venet sculptures that currently punctuate the chateau’s landscape.
And finally, our local supermarket – the Monoprix. We call it Mopo for short, and I sometimes forget that other people don’t call it that, too. It’s sort of like a smaller version of Target but with groceries. So, I bought diapers, a nice pea coat for Little Mister, beers and a frozen gratin dauphinois.
After all this, and a good hour of walking and daydreaming, I realized that really honestly, in the end – I don’t want to leave. This sort of surprised both me and my husband, as I’ve been pining for home and the familiar for months and months. I’d been feeling like this was just a pause from our “real” life and we needed to get back to it – needed to continue to build our careers and buy a house and blah blah blah. But I realized today that I don’t want to give up what we have here. And instead, I’m ready to feast on the experiences offered us, to take it all in and savor it while we can, before we’re truly obligated and truly ready to move back to where we came from.
Why I Love a French Fall
The weather is turning cold here again, already, and the leaves are beginning to change color, crisp up, and fall away. This means that my summer basically amounted to the two short weeks I spent in California – sigh.
Cheering my mood and saving me from starting my own summer-deprivation pity party, I was reminded today that in France autumn heralds the arrival of something truly special: the baby balaclava!
As you can see, Little Mister isn’t nearly as thrilled as I am. Here he is modeling his newly-purchased winter accessories. Now I’m happily anticipating the coming winter and all the snuggly gear I get to force on my sweet Little. Do they sell these in the US?
And Now For Something Completely Different (miscellany) shopping
by marya
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Bianca and Family
While scouring the internet for anything Nathalie L’été (a new favorite artist/designer who has a great line of stuff at Monoprix right now) I stumbled across this amazing boutique:
Specializing in hip and unique wares for kids and family, this shop offers a somewhat random yet nonetheless delightful selection of goods. From party supplies to vintage children’s furniture, this site has me all excited and ready for holiday shopping (not to mention planning for Little Mister’s 1st birthday in January!).









Tadpole Goes to the Gold Country (and so do we!)
In his seventh month we were finally able to take Little Mister California way. Though I’d spent June and July pining away for California’s dry grass, hot hot sun, and days spent lounging in or near bodies of water, late August was the first time the stars aligned and we were able to make the pilgrimage. Our trip was, sadly, short – only two weeks – and incredibly busy since this was the first time Little Mister would meet most of his family.
We enjoyed not one, but TWO, super huge “coming out” parties for our little guy and though he’s not used to such a crowd he did great. And, of course, we were always nearby if our little needed a dose of familiarity to ease the stress of the new.
It was incredible to see everyone and to be surrounded by so much love. I felt that somehow Jonas’ entry into the world was now complete. That somehow Jonas’ world – or rather our world with Jonas – wasn’t fully whole until he was embraced and admired by his “tribe” as it were. Don’t believe what they say: you really can go home again.
As it turns out, Little Mister is naturally-suited to our Californian lifestyle, and really took to my favorite summer pass-time: lounging by/in the pool. I was proud of my Little and am smugly inclined to think he may take after me in this regard.
He was a little unsure of the pool at first, but after a few moments he really got the hang of this poolside lounging thing: he kicked his feet forward, leaned his body back so he was comfortably reclined, and contentedly looked about. I think he was pining for a baby pina colada, but we didn’t have any of the ingredients on hand.
Every day thereafter we took the Little for a splash – even just a mini one.
By the end of our trip, Little Mister had perfected the art of poolside lounging.
Of course, no visit home would be complete without a trip to Coloma for coffee and burritos with river rats in that order.
The trip was too short and we weren’t able to introduce Little Mister to many of our traditional foothill rituals: A stroll down Main Street Placerville, used book browsing at the Bookery (my fav book store in the world – really), cinnamon rolls at Sweetie Pie’s, hippie lunch at the Cozmic Cafe, sticky sweet apple things at Apple Hill, and a dip in the American River. Maybe next year!
And not made by Geppetto
He’s a real boy now! No longer my wormy little newborn, in the past few weeks Jonas has learned to flip himself over, has balanced himself sitting up, and is attempting to crawl (though inevitably pushes himself in the opposite direction of where he wants to go). What really floors me, though, is how much a part of the world he is now. He sees particular objects and understands their use – anticipates what we’ll do with them. I’m excited, impressed, surprised, and a little bit scared. We’re entering a new phase of our mommy/little mister partnership, one that involves helping him feel really comfortable in the big big world. I hope I’m up for the job!
On another note, June 21 was fête de la musique – when it stays light until 10:30 and musicians flood the streets of Paris and Versailles without having to apply for the ordinary permits. In years past (before little mister came along) we would trek about Paris, happening upon whatever musicians (good or miserable) happen to be out. Since little mister’s bedtime is 8pm, we weren’t really up for it this year. But, our apartment is on the main market square in Versailles and we had a front row seat for some awesome (indie/classic rock cover) bands. With the cheesy lighting, drunk teens, and off-key guitars it almost felt like the El Dorado County Fair had arrived in France. This was the view from our living room window:










































































